What Does Super Wool Mean?

Why the numerical designations-Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 180s-for ultra-lightweight wools don't mean what you think they do. The thread of this story is the numbering system used to describe the new breed of super-lightweight, high-twist wools. Pioneered by Italian mills about ten years ago, these fabrics are made using high-tech machines that spin wool lighter and finer than it's ever been spun before. The various grades of cloth are referred to as Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s and so on, up to Super 200s, which Oxxford Clothes started using last year for a line of suits. (As far as I know, this is the top of the super-lightweight wool pyramid right now.) The problem is the impression left by the numbering system. Set up as a shorthand for describing the fineness of wool fibers, it has, in the process of trickling out into the marketplace, come to be taken as a quality ranking. It's easy to assume a Super 120s wool must be better than a Super 100s wool and not as good as a Super 150s wool-in short, the higher the S-number, the better the fabric. That's simply not true, and no less an authority than Paolo Zegna, the textiles division president of Ermenegildo Zegna, describes the S-system, as it's known in the trade, as "a very big confusion." Zegna doesn't use S-numbers at all, preferring to describe its lightweight wools as High Performance or 15 Milmil 15, for example. Still, the S-numbers persist, a lingua franca that's irresistible because it reduces a complex subject to a sort of yardstick. The S-system dates back to the 18th century (also known at the time as the worsted count system), and then as now it denoted the fineness of a given bale of wool. In those days finished yarn was coiled into 560-yard-long loops called hanks. The S-number indicated how many hanks could be gotten out of a pound of wool. The finer the wool yarn, the farther it would go. The S-scale ran from 30s to 100s, then the finest wool available. (Today 100s wool is practically the bottom rung of the S-scale.) The S-scale remains even though hanks are long gone. Now the number refers to the fineness of the wool as measured in microns (one-millionth of a meter). Does that mean finer is better? Not necessarily. As Paolo Zegna explains, "You can have a good 15-micron wool or a bad 15-micron wool." (Finer does mean more expensive: Oxxford's suits made from Super 200s wool retail for $14,000.) Fineness is just one quality component: Length, strength, color, and crimp are also important, with the first two particularly so. Length is critical because the longer the fiber, the stronger the yarn that can be spun from it. Strength is critical because the yarn must be twisted very tightly (hence the name high-twist fabric) to achieve a fine weave. The way in which the fabric is finished also plays an enormous role in the feel and look. At Dormeuil, I have seen Super 100s wool that felt as sumptuous as Super 120s or 140s because of the finishing.

Men's Fashion Must-Haves

We're always wondering what to wear, but looking for those perfectly matching colors and styles for every occasion seems to be such a hassle. We never actually stop and question ourselves on the basics of men's fashion. What are men's fashion must-haves anyhow? These nuts and bolts of men's fashion are the foundation of our everyday wear, and they'll keep us looking good and bail us out whenever we lack inspiration. Men's fashion essentials will incontestably vary in price and style according to a man's given age, income bracket, work environment, and personal style, but rarely will the actual list's substance vary from what we've compiled hereinafter. Read the following list and take note of which fashion items are missing from your wardrobe. "formal dressing" Suit Every man needs at least one well-tailored suit for whatever special events he'll be attending. Even if it's a "once a year" occasion, it's embarrassing to feel out of place and look like a cheapskate without a suit. If you need only one suit, buy a classic black or gray single-breasted suit. Ask your salesperson for a classic cut that won't go out of style. That way you'll only need to change your shirt and tie to keep your look fresh and up-to-date. Blue/White Button-Down Shirt A dressy white shirt is a must-have for suits and/or dressy pants for more formal occasions. It',s a classic article that will never go out of style. (If you're a banker, you'll have to wear a blue or white button-down shirt every working day of your life.) One Magnificent Tie A tie is a fashion essential because it complements the suit. Although you should have a variety of ties, you should always purchase at least one new, sensational tie per year because tie trends change frequently. This will force you to change your look on a regular basis (assuming you don't wear suits that often). But if you wear suits every day, you should buy a trendy tie every season. That way you'll be in style and look sharp every time you wear a suit, as it will allow you to accumulate a nice collection of diverse ties in the process. Black Shoes, Black Belt One of the biggest fashion no-nos is to mismatch the color of your belt with that of your shoes. Wearing black shoes and a black belt is a fashion fundamental and will bail you out for any occasion, whether it's casual or formal. If your budget for fashion goods is rather low, buy at least one pair of black leather shoes and a black leather belt. Classic black shoes will last you at least a year or two while a black belt will most likely last you a lifetime. Finally, make sure you wear your black shoes and black belt together -- and don't forget to sport black socks. normal wear Jeans Blue jeans are embedded in American culture, and are trousers each and every guy has in his wardrobe. They look good when they're brand new and even when they're somewhat worn out. Blue jeans are versatile and comfortable, and can easily be combined with dressier shoes, sneakers, sandals, or loafers to make for a great sporty look. White T-Shirt The Bruce Willis "blue jeans and white t-shirt" look is what men worldwide should be aiming for when not at work. The white t-shirt and blue jeans ensemble is an extremely simple genre that looks great while remaining comfortable. It's probably the only combination that you'll be able to wear every day of the week without anybody noticing it (this doesn't imply that you only need one shirt and one pair of jeans -- buy several). One Favorite Sweater Every man has one sweater that he'll wear again and again, regardless of how many times it's been worn. Make sure you have at least one favorite sweater handy that makes you feel good and bails you out when you can't figure out what to wear. Many types of sweaters exist, so if you don't know which one might look good on you or even suit your style best, read up on the different types of sweaters available. Sneakers You probably already own a pair of sneakers for workouts or to wear with your favorite blue jeans. Wearing nice-looking sneakers with jeans or any other type of sporty pants looks amazing, not to mention that it's extremely comfortable. Buy at least one pair of new sneakers a year. accessories, Leather wallet A leather wallet is a must-have fashion accessory that every man should own. It's practical, enduring and will look great in both formal and casual occasions. A black or brown leather wallet is also a sure bet because it blends perfectly with most of your attire,and is a classic that will never go out of style. I personally recommend the Brown Hartmann Leather Billfolds or the Black Hartmann Leather Billfolds. Watch We've said it before and we'll say it again, a watch is the only piece of jewelry any man really needs. A timepiece, like shoes, can say a lot about a man's personality and fashion sense. If you're limit,ed to one watch, make sure it's one that can be worn both during formal and not-so-formal occasions - like the Seiko Le Grand Sport . Like anything else, I strongly suggest that you buy the best quality product you can afford, to avoid having to worry about it for a while. Take note of the fashion essentials you're missing and shop for them. Have a great week and remember to keep on stylin'.

Top 7 Best Dressed Male Celebrities on the Red Carpet

Male Celebrities - Let's be honest, most of us watch award shows to catch a glimpse of our favorite celebrities. But we also watch to see celebrities' outfits - there is always much anticipation as to what we will see on the red carpet fashion wise no matter what the award show. So check out my list of best dressed celebs. 1) Tom Hanks - Cannes 2004 Tom Hanks always looks great at award shows. He and his wife, Rita Wilson, continually make the best dressed lists. 2) Johnny Depp - Venice Film Festival 2004 Johnny Depp has some hits and misses when it comes to award shows fashion, but he looks fantastic in all black at the 2004 Venice Film Festival 3) Brad Pitt at Cannes 2004 Brad Pitt is another actor that can have some unfortunate red carpet moments, but at Cannes in 2004 he looks dashing in a classic tuxedo. This goes to show that it pays to stick with the tried and true. 4) Clint and Dina Eastwood at the InStyle and Warner Brothers Post-Globes Party Clint might be getting on in years but he is proves that he still knows how to don a tux. 5) Leonardo DiCaprio at the SAG Awards 2005 Leo chose a suit style tux at the 2005 SAG Awards which compliments him perfectly. 6) Thomas Haden Church at the SAG Awards 2005 Although simple, this black suit with white shirt and silver tie that Thomas Haden Church wore at the 2005 SAG awards is pure elegance. 7) Don Cheadle and Bridgid Coulter at the SAG Awards 2005 I love the black and white striped ties Don Cheadle wore with his suit at the 2005 SAG awards. It's a fun twist on an otherwise typical ensemble. He could lose the sunglasses though. By: Daniel Billett,

What Is Your Personal Power Style?

There are as many personal styles as there are men, but only four major power styles. Every man who is in the center of life, rather than on the sidelines belongs to one of these four groups. He has more points of similarity – regardless of his profession, age, or physique – with members of that style category than with men in others. Select the power group that comes closest to illustrating how you see [or would like to see] yourself, then we will help you put your own style to work for you. Relaxed Classyc Style Personality Traits Seen by others as... Usual Vacation Choices Exemplars Easygoing… Confident… Humorous… Extroverted… Outdoorsy “A good guy despite his success and money.” Woods, mountains, unspoiled places Alan Bates, Marlon Brando, Jimmy Carter, Peter Gimbel, John B. Kelly Jr., Steve McQueen, Ryan O’Neal, Robert Redford, John Wayne Conservative Classyc Style Personality Traits Seen by others as... Usual Vacation Choices Exemplars Firm and steady in his ideas and beliefs… Calm… Understanding… Traditional “The man to watch, he can do great things. And you can trust him.” Places for rugged sports: skiing, sailing, etc., with lively people around Julian Bond, Carter Burden, Dick Cavett, Walter Cronkite, Henry Ford II, Edward M. Kennedy, John V. Lindsay, George Plimpton, Elliot Richardson, John D. Rockerfeller IV Elegant Classyc Style Personality Traits Seen by others as... Usual Vacation Choices Exemplars Restrained… Worldly… Quiet… Sophisticated “A true aristocrat.” Restful but luxurious resorts with every amenity Gianni Agnelli, Hardy Amies, Fred Astaire, Earl Blackwell, Bill Blass, Peter Duchin, Douglas Fairbanks, Jr., John Fairchild, Cary Grant, Kenneth J. Lane Adventurous Classyc Style Personality Traits Seen by others as... Usual Vacation Choices Exemplars Daring… Active… Self-assured… A gambler… Gregarious “He always makes things happen.

Style and The Man...Lets Talk about it

From head to toe, "Style and the Man" is a valuable guide towards dressing and feeling successful in any situation. "Style and the Man" can help a man attain a perfect look to his dress wear, and consistency in his wardrobe. Here are some sample fashion tips from "Style and the Man". We highly recommend this book. We feel that it belongs on the bookshelf of every man who truly cares about dressing his best. The Shoulders Shoulders cut too wide diminish the head. Shoulders cut too narrow make the head appear larger than it is. The jacket's shoulders frame the head--A balanced presentation. Fullness over the blades allows the jacket to drape comfortably and releases the arms to move freely. Jacket Length Method 1: Jacket length in relation to the arm, rule of thumb: Jacket's bottom should line up with thumb knuckle. Method 2: Jacket length in relation to the torso. Divide the distance from the collar's seam to the floor in half. Placement of the Gorge Jacket collar needs to be raised. Jacket collar needs to be lowered. Correct relationship: As 1/2" of the shirtsleeve should show below the jacket cuff, 1/2" o the shirt collar should appear above the jacket collar. Dressing The Hand Dressing the hand: A 1/2" Band of linen should show below the jacket cuff. Most men wear their coat sleeves too long. The sleeve must have enough length for the arm to bend without pulling on the cuff. The shirt cuff must fit snugly, so that the additional sleeve length will not all over the hand. Trousers The weight of the cuff helps keep the trouser on the shoe. The trouser bottom should cover two-thirds of the wearer's shoe and be long enough to remain in contact with the shoe when walking. The trouser crease should intersect the middle of the knee and bisect the middle of the shoe. Shoes The classic Italian shoe: Its lower lines make the foot appear smaller. The traditional British shoe: Its welt construction gives it a more substantial proportion. The Dress Shirt All fine dress shirts should have a buttoning sleeve placket. Evidence of meticulous crafting is the presence of a horizontal buttonhole. Symbol of old-world workmanship: Reinforcing gusset strengthens and conceals the point at which the shirt's front, back, and side seams join. A matching patterned yoke to sleeve is found only in a very expensive dress shirt. The Dress Shirt Collar Straight point collars offset facial rotundity. Spread collars best present the long of narrow face. The cynosure of the tailored man's presentation. The Fit of Your Dress Shirt Well-designed spread collars should have no tie space. The edges of a spread-collar dress shirt should be covered by the jacket front.

Color Profiling by AHFashion

Color Profiling and Body Colors The first group of paddles in your Color Profile are your Body Color Neutrals. They are the colors that simulate the color of your skin, skin undertones, red tones beneath the surface of your skin, hair, eyebrows and eye hues. These colors that represent you can serve as connecting colors to connect you to your clothing. Particular metal colors can also serve as Body Color Neutrals. The rest of the colors in your Color Profile are variations on the theme of your body colors or they are Complementary Hues. They are colors that look great on you and blend well with you Body Color Neutrals. When you wear colors in combination, they will be more effective if you I some way repeat an aspect of your own coloring with a Body Color Neutrals. Color Classifications Skin Tones: Skin tones may be used for underwear, shirts or blouses, companion or background colors. A skin tone may be an alternative for white. Be certain to add the proper amount of contrast when using a skin tone in your wardrobe. Head to toe skin tones may appear to be too bland. Red Tones: Some people have “high red color” in their faces. Others have more illusive red tones or seemingly not much red color at all. It is important to wear the reds that do not clash with your skin and hair. Reds may be used as blush, lipstick and nail color, or for any item of apparel used in the wardrobe. Hair Colors: Your hair is almost always visible, so its color can be a connecting color. The metal tones which are most flattering, are often derived from your hair tones. Hair tones are your most versatile neutral. Many leather goods are available in hair tones. Your more subdued hair tones may be used in combination with more colorful colors or with dark neutrals. Eye Colors: Eye colors will be flattering colors to wear in your wardrobe. They may be worn alone of combined with other colors. Avoid variations of your eye color that are so bright, that they make your own eyes look dull. Eye color can guide in the selection of eye makeup as well as clothing. Metal Colors: Metal colors can serve as accents and brighteners in your wardrobe. Metal colors may be worn in combination. Metal colors may be bright or more subdued. The size of the object will be a deciding factor in choosing the intensity of the metal. Metal colors may be used to “warm” particular clothing color combinations. Your Color Profile Harmony: Your Color Profile has an overall harmony. Be aware of this harmony in putting your clothing together. If you use colors that are not in your Color Profile, try to combine them in such a way with colors that are in your Color Profile to maintain your overall harmony.

Stripes. Parralel Lines

To an Anglo-Saxon, a thing of beauty is the application of an idea in practical manner. To the Gallic mind however, the true beauty is in the concept. Apropos of that reflection, I read a book recently that could've only been written by a Frenchman. The book is called "The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabrics." It was written by Michel Pastoureau an expert on medieval heraldry and paleographic archivist at the Ecole Pratique des Hautes Etudes at the Sorbonne. Why in the world would I be interested in such an arcane and recondite subject? It all started with an afternoon dressing The Fairfield Men's Store windows with owner Naresh Mansukhami. He said stripes are always fashionable. So when I saw a book review about "The Devil's Cloth," I couldn't resist it. It seems a controversy broke out in 13th century France about the wearing of striped fabric. Some Carmelites monks came to Paris wearing striped robes. The order had been founded in the prior century in Palestine and its exotic, eastern origin may have contributed to the average Parisian looking askance at its monks. It seems at this time throughout Europe striped clothing was reserved, sometimes required, of certain marginalized members of the population. It was the clothing of prostitutes, jugglers and clowns, hangmen, in other words, social deviants. In Germany, orders were issued that stripes were to be worn by lepers, cripples, bohemians, heretics and sometimes Jews. There are also literary texts of the period, both in vulgar Latin and more so in the vernacular such as romances, where stripes were the clothing of treacherous knights, usurping bailiffs, adulterous wives, rebel sons, disloyal brothers, cruel dwarfs and greedy servants. In time medieval heraldry weakened the antipathy toward stripes and led them from diabolic to domestic consideration. Stripes soon found a home in uniforms, civil and military, in the 15th century. By the 17th century the aristocracy was wearing stripes and little of its former ignoble symbolism remained. In 1775, everything changes. With the American Revolution of all things, stripes became revolutionary and romantic. Following America, France went stripe crazy, storming the Bastille in tricolors! Even I, who has been known to sometimes prefer the realm of metaphor to reality, think the author is stretching it when he tries to make a connection, geometric and symbolic, between the bars of the Bastille, the prisons of the Reign of Terror and the striped clothing of the revolutionaries. I do, however, like the idea of the revolutionary as a vestigial devil, juggler, hangman. Pastoureau also does a virtuoso linguistic analysis, comparing verbs in French, German, English and Latin that share the radical stri beginning and also the meanings of not only to stripe, but to separate, to punish, to bar. He goes too far with chastising Freud for not thinking more about our striped pajamas, sheets, mattresses as grills and cages! And he finally flips out fabulously French in the closing pages when he sees striped patterns in much of man's imposition on nature with ploughshares, rakes, railways, electric poles, telephone lines, highways and bar codes. Wheew! I think his last sentence says it all… "Too many stripes can finally drive you mad." Me? I prefer to keep my sanity and take one of Naresh's spread-collar, button-cuff broadcloths, with a regimental tie that highlights its… STRIPES

Men's Fashion

Fashion-conscious women who get close enough, especially close enough to touch one of my Sea Island cotton shirts, usually ask me where I bought it. I always respond by saying, "It's not where I bought the shirt; it's where the cotton comes from." Then I go into my spiel about Sea Island cotton from off the coast of Georgia being the finest quality of cotton grown anywhere in the world. Though the cotton was named after these coastal islands, it is now cultivated on the islands of Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St. Kitts, Barbados and the sine qua non Superfine of St. Vincent. I fell in love with the soft, shimmery fabric years ago, first as single-needle tailored dress shirts, then again with knits that are as tender as a baby's tush. The cotton is grown on the 100 low islands off the coast of South Carolina, mostly Georgia and north Florida. The ocean side of the islands is generally sandy, the mainland-facing side is marshy. The islands have a humid, subtropical climate with hot summers and mild winters and abundant rainfall, all ideal conditions for the growing the long-staple cotton. The fiber's length determines the quality of the cotton. The longer the fiber, the glossier, more resistant and valuable is the cotton. As the stature of Sea Island 's quality grew internationally, the Japanese now own most of its production. Its worldwide production is very limited and therefore extremely valuable. The Prince of Wales put his imprimatur on the fabric in 1930 when the Times of London revealed he was a "steady wearer" of West Indian Sea Island cotton. The Fairfield Men's Store has all kinds of regal Sea Island shirts from the inimitable Eugene Venanzi and his Italian factories in stripes, checks, plaids and solids in all colors. Venanzi's elegant shirts come in button or French cuffs. Check out Venanzi's collection at www.suityourself and zoom in on the shirt of your choice and order it. Or if you want to feel the difference for yourself, come in and just ask Naresh to show you a few samples. Cotton, as the jingle says, is indeed the fabric of our times, and has been for a long time. It has been spun, woven and dyed since prehistoric times. It clothed the people of ancient India, Egypt and China. Cotton fabrics found in Peruvian tombs are said to be pre-Incan. Hundreds of years before the Christian area cotton textiles were woven in India with matchless skill, and their use spread to the Mediterranean. In the first century A.D. Arab traders brought fine muslin and calico to Italy and Spain. The word cotton comes from the Arabic word qutn. The Moors cultivated cotton in Spain in the ninth century and various kinds appeared in Italy in the 14th century. The invention of the cotton gin in 1793 was one of the prime drivers of the Industrial Revolution. With women reacting the way they do to its luster and softness, the thing that absolutely befuddles me is its paucity of use in women's garments. With so many women in so many high-profile positions, it seems almost criminal that access to this delicate yet durable fabric is rare. Naresh wants to make custom-made blouses for women and I don't blame him. I think the market is a gold mine, an untouched resource. He has access to reams of fabric and loads of colors in solids, stripes, checks, plaids and patterns. I had an old girlfriend who loved to traipse around the house wearing my light-blue Sea Island shirt after I came home from work. I used to tell her to buy her own. She said she tried but never found one, even in the best stores. Now that's sexism, discrimination, or as I say, almost criminal.

Choosing Buttons, 2 Button, 3 Button, 4 Button OH MY GOD

3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 18, 2005 11:27 PM I'm a 20 year old guy who considers myself a little trendy looking to buy my first suit. I am trying to decide between a 3 or 4 button suit. I really like the look of more than 2 buttons. Are 4 button suits still good? If so, how long do you think they will be? What do you guys think? Thanks! taittinger Posts: 166 Registered: 3/6/05 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 18, 2005 11:31 PM If you only have one suit or, in your case, planning on it, I would stick with two or three button depending on your build. They are much more versatile. I think only athletes go with more than four nowadays. taylormcd Posts: 1,702 Registered: 12/19/04 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 19, 2005 12:21 AM Definitely not a four button. youngp Posts: 56 Registered: 3/17/05 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 19, 2005 1:14 PM go for a classic two button. three is conservative edgy and four+ buttons is more of an individual style. it works for some and others it does not. like i personally could never pair some sneakers with a suit...but some can, and they look great at it. so go with what makes you comfortable, but as a starter suit, go with two buttons. hugoboss Posts: 16 Registered: 3/8/05 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 20, 2005 10:47 AM Two button... muman Posts: 9 Registered: 3/18/05 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 12:43 AM Aren't 2 button suits a little old man-ish? (by that I mean older than I am, such as a 35+ year old professional type). I am looking for something to wear to friends' weddings, etc. rolas99 Posts: 2 Registered: 3/20/05 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 12:49 AM have you seen the new trend??? if you want something stylish , the 2 button is now the way to go now. Don't go 4, you will date your suit and will look bad in a few years. 2 or 3 are safe bets. Like I said 2 is new thing now, after a long years of 3 predominace. but 3 stilll a good choice, if you want to go consevative. The 2 is staying here for a while, if you go a 2, get somethign very fit your body. d2guy Posts: 193 Registered: 3/13/05 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 1:44 AM i would suggest you buy three button if you don't like two button....i like the two button also but i like three too....yes depends on your build, if your quite tall like over 6'3 or 6'4, a four button is a good choice... hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 29, 2005 10:40 PM hey guys, what do you think is more stylish 2 button suit or 3 button suit? classy Posts: 138 Registered: 4/2/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 29, 2005 10:52 PM I personally prefer 3 button suits andy1 Posts: 725 Registered: 4/1/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 29, 2005 11:29 PM Facts: 1. A 2 button suit is typically a "fashion" suit for sport uses. So "stylishly" speaking a 2 button would be considered more fashion forward. 2. A 3 button suit is more of a classic piece used in everyday business uses. The 3 buton suit has more practical uses in the business/education/banking, etc... world. I own a lot more 3 button suits because they seem to look better on me. Go with what "best looks on you". Good luck. d2guy Posts: 193 Registered: 3/13/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 30, 2005 3:13 AM you stated "stylish"....yes i definitely have to go with the 2 button suit or sportcoat (doesn't matter)....i own both two and three button suits or sportcoats, agreed with andy1, 3 button is a bit more for the business use mediahound Posts: 85 Registered: 4/12/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 30, 2005 5:32 PM folks, it's not an issue of 2 or 3 buttons, but the cut of the sportcoat. for instance, i have a 2 button that looks very close to one of my 3 buttons because the top button is a bit high up etc so pay attention to the opening size when you button the top button and let that be the judge. i agree, you should go with what looks best on you. but it's a cut issue rather than an amount of buttons issue. andy1 Posts: 725 Registered: 4/1/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 30, 2005 7:05 PM Mediahound we're not talking about "sportcoats", or "blazers". We're talking about suits. Traditionally speaking Three (3) button suits are for business or more conservative formats such as when I go to work. No matter where the buttons are located. Two (2) button suits are more traditionally "sporty". You would wear a great 2 button suit to a club/party such as a casual New Years Eve Party. Any more questions or comments please see the suit specialist in a better luxury department store such as the one I work in. But again.... Wear what works best with your overall "look". ironman Posts: 17 Registered: 6/28/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 30, 2005 9:45 PM i agree with both andy and media hound. The two button suit is a more casual look and not for business meetings. And a three button is a more professional look but you can still look stylish and look businss sauvy. But.....the cut has a alot to do with the way the suit fits a person. i usually get sport cuts on all my suits because it fits my frame. but i do also own a lot of three button suits with a more traditional tailor. so as they both said.....go with what looks good on you hewsinator Posts: 54 Registered: 3/26/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 30, 2005 10:16 PM I think a big part of your decision should be how many suits you already own. If this is gonna be your first suit, use it for weddings, funerals, and interviews, go 3 button with a classic cut. If you have 2 or 3 suits already, hell, even another one, get a "fashion" 2 button. At the moment it would seem that 2 buttons are more "stylish." But 3 buttons will never be out of style, Think of all the poor suckers who bought a 4 button a while ago. barrister Posts: 71 Registered: 6/28/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jun 30, 2005 11:59 PM I find it interesting that people would describe a two button suit as the more fashionable suit. To me, the classic suit - think Brooks Brothers or classic Saville row tailoring is the two button suit. The three button suit, while having been around for along time and the standard I think in the 30s, has only really come back as the standard business suit in the last 10 years or so. I agree with the post above that states that more important than the number of buttons is the cut. There are now the high cut two button suits which give a line similar to three button suits with one fewer button. Allow me to pose another question, which is more fashionable at the moment, a three button suit or a side vented six to three button double breasted. It is only a matter of time before double breasted suits come back in style with a vengence. andy1 Posts: 725 Registered: 4/1/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jul 1, 2005 2:02 AM You can (and probably will) be the only person wearing a double breasted suit, but I'll sell you one at my store. Also they will never come back with a vengence. PS The 3 button suit has been considered the standard business suit for longer than 10 years. PSS We're in 2005!!!! trustme Posts: 76 Registered: 3/24/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jul 1, 2005 2:24 AM if you have a big stomache ! go with 2 button barrister Posts: 71 Registered: 6/28/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jul 1, 2005 2:31 AM You are right but I am ok with being the only person in a double breasted suit. Call it part of my weaknes for English tailoring. Someday they will everything moves in cycles kingyouth Posts: 15 Registered: 5/26/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jul 4, 2005 1:00 AM You are right but I am ok with being the only person in a double breasted suit. Call it part of my weaknes for English tailoring. Someday they will everything moves in cycles. While I truly like the look of a double-breasted suit jacket the problem is that the worst type of men wear them. The men with large guts think they look good in such jackets, yet their stomach only pulls the buttons way out of proportion. While I have been told I would look good in a DB suit, I'll stick with my 3-button, side vented jackets. hewsinator Posts: 54 Registered: 3/26/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jul 4, 2005 1:04 AM You won't be the only one, Don Cherry has sworn that he "will never be found in a single breasted suit." And as for the directly above post of the type of guy that wears DB Suits, still refer to Don Cherry. If you don't live in Canada, or watch hockey, google him and you will get the feel. barrister Posts: 71 Registered: 6/28/05 Re: hmm 2 or 3 button suit !! Posted: Jul 5, 2005 6:51 PM dignan Posts: 534 Registered: 9/23/03 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 9:45 AM Three - even if you are eight feet tall. taylormcd Posts: 1,702 Registered: 12/19/04 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 10:25 AM Again, listen to dignan, 3 button. briley47 Posts: 65 Registered: 2/17/05 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 10:29 AM 2 or 3 are interchangeably classic. if one's not "in", the other is. right now, 2 buttons are on an upswing. 4 buttons and such should be reserved for imbecile nfl commentators and 1-buttons should be reserved for tuxedos. taylormcd Posts: 1,702 Registered: 12/19/04 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 10:30 AM Love your comment about NFL commentators. I think you were referring to Deion. Though he tends to go five or six buttons! briley47 Posts: 65 Registered: 2/17/05 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 10:34 AM taylormcd wrote: Love your comment about NFL commentators. I think you were referring to Deion. Though he tends to go five or six buttons! deion, michael irvin, shannon sharpe...most of 'em. and you're right, i should have said 4+ buttons. monet Posts: 1,471 Registered: 10/18/04 Re: 3 or 4 button suit? Posted: Mar 21, 2005 10:43 AM Go with the timeless - 3 button suit, it never varies from elegance. The four button is just wrong, trends are just trends. The two button looks like a tux, but its far much better then a four or five button. MC Hammer is having an auction at the end of the week I think, suits for 1/2 price. When in doubt what would Bond wear (Pierce Brosnan) a classic two button tux and the classic three button suit. Watch the World is Not Enough, class and elegance. Message was edited by: monet Stressa 3-Button, Single-Breasted, Notch lapel. Upper Welt pocket. Lower pockets have straight flaps. No vent. Savona 2 Raised Buttons, Notch lapel. Upper Welt pocket. Lower pockets have straight flaps. No vent. Urbano 3 Button, Soft, Single-Breasted, Notch lapel. No front dart. Upper Welt pocket. Lower pockets have straight flaps. No vent. Pants & Trousers Rinaldo Deep Single Reverse Pleat. 3/8" Welt Front Pockets. 3/4" Width Belt Loops. 3/4 Front Lined. Rovio 2 Deep Reverse Pleat. 1/8 Top Front Pockets. 5/8" Width Belt Loops. 3/4 Front Lined Raspini 3 Deep Reverse Pleats. 1/8 Top front pockets. 3/8" width belt loops. 2 Back pockets with embroidered "D" stitch (both with button and button hole.) 3/4 front lined. Royce 3 Deep Reverse Pleats. 1/8 Top front pockets. 3/8" width belt loops. 2 Back pockets with embroidered "D" stitch (both with button and button hole.) 3/4 front lined. Scott 2 Deep Reverse Pleats. Angle Besom front pockets with embroidered "D" stitch. 3/4 Front lined. Classic 2 Deep Reverse Pleats. 1/8 top front pockets. 5/8 " width belt loops. 3/4 front lined. Classic gentleman's slightly trimmer fit. Randal 1 Reverse and 1 inverted box pleat. Angle double besom front pockets. 1 3/4 " tunnel front belt loops. Blazers & Sportcoats Sarno 2-Button, Single-Breasted, Notch lapel. Upper Welt pocket. Lower pockets have straight flaps. No vent Jacket. Sabbia 3-Button, Single-Breasted, Notch lapel. Upper Welt pocket. Lower pockets have straight flaps. No vent. Ulando Soft Construction. 3-Button, Single-Breasted, Notch lapel. Upper Welt pocket. Lower pockets have straight flaps. No vent. Urbi 3-Button, Soft, Single-Breasted, Notch lapel. Upper Welt pocket. 2 Lower open patch pockets. Front dart. No vent Jacket.

Fall Fashion, Men Suits

Fall fashion collections are often the more favored by consumers and are certainly my favorite. The reason being fabrics are rich in color and texture yet made lighter for those mild fall days and can often be worn year round. And since colors are typically neutral, it makes it easy to mix and match. But more importantly, fall is about layering and I love a layered look. When it gets cooler in the evenings or as the season progresses, you can throw on a sweater or jacket or both. Fall 2005 is a particularly exciting season for men’s fashion. Tweeds are a highlighted feature as well as various striped patterns. It’s a bit retro. The colors of the season are mossy greens, teal blues, and deep reds mixed with classic earth tones such as gray, black and brown. It’s also about mixing vintage-inspired items that have a modern edge with classic pieces, and you won't have to worry color coordinating your ensembles because the new craze is about contrasting colors and mixing patterns. Fall looks also include pairing a tweed sports jacket with a modern striped shirt or a printed tee with jeans or twill trousers. Remember, you don't have to spend a fortune to look stylish, but try to incorporate these six fall musts into your wardrobe. Cardigan This is not your grandfather’s cardigan. It’s a different kind of sweater that has a slimmer, more modern cut that you can wear at the office or on a date. It’s thin enough to wear over a dress shirt and underneath a jacket. It can even be worn over your favorite tee with a pair of jeans. It’s one of the most versatile items you can have in your wardrobe. Try one made out of light weight merino wool or cashmere and that has a double zipper so you unzip the bottom when you are sitting. And for an extra kick, try a cardigan with small pockets or some sort of patch on the elbows. Pinstriped Pants Pinstripes are one of the most in looks of the season. Perfect for formal or more casual occasions, the detailing on pinstriped pants spices up what otherwise might be an ordinary ensemble. And for a funkier look, try matching them with a fun striped shirt and your argyle sweater. It doesn’t matter what you go with--navy with gray pinstripes, gray with brown pinstripes, or black with any color of pinstripe, they are all good. Striped Shirts Every designer and manufacturer has come out with some sort striped shirt or another. Just get one. It can be worn independently with jeans, with a suit or under a sweater. Remember, fall is about layering and from bold and thick stripes to thin ones; it’s a good look that you will find easy to incorporate into many ensembles. Blazer/Sports Jacket A cool blazer is one of this fall's must-have items, and the styles that are out there really give blazers a life of their own. You can find some with patch pockets and/or elbow patches, others with big lapels and double-sided vents, but they are all a revival of retro looks. And don't forget moleskin and corduroy options which can be a less formal look than tweed. For more information about blazers, read my article Fall 2005 is About the Blazer. A stylish tweed jacket is a great way to upgrade your look. Choose a nice wool or wool and cashmere combination, three-button style jacket. Don’t get to wild with color though; go for a neutral color that can easily be worn with jeans, flat-front pants and dressier pants. This is something that can be worn with a dress shirt or a printed tee underneath. It has so much versatility. Flat-Front Twill Pants Pick up some twill flat-front pants--they are a great, simple addition which will go with just about everything. And they come in an array of colors and patterns to boot. Go for straight-legged version and whose fabric features a textured look. They are great for a night out with your friends, with anything from a turtleneck to a printed tee, or for a more casual day at the office, with a button-down shirt or a merino wool sweater. Jeans The last few years have seen jeans take a stronger role in the American wardrobe. And it seems every few months a new, high end jeans company pops up. I might add some of the prices these jeans are fetching are quite steep; even The Gap has a high end, pricier line. In terms of color, we've seen everything from dark to light washes, but one thing is for certain--the washed-out, worn-in look is here to stay. Since there is so much variety there is no excuse not to pick up a pair that enhances your best features.

Men’s Fashion: Suits

Everyone wants to be Cary Grant. Even I want to be Cary Grant.’ – Cary Grant Without suits, men would have nothing. In the hierarchy of style, a good suit remains a man’s only trump card. Even in this sad age of casual-wear, the suit still carries an air of success, taste, and sophistication. It is designed to make you look better, to break boundaries between social classes, to make a small man tall with pinstripes or a fat man rich with soft wools. The suit looks good in restaurants, trains, dinner parties or Paris; in short, everywhere you want to be. It is, in its best forms, a complete outfit that will never fail you. And that is exactly what it will do, if you treat it right. Unfortunately the majority of suits you see look awful. This isn’t necessary. Even if you work ten hours with your jacket on, being mindful of your clothing will keep you ready for cocktails after work. Too many men either don’t care or don’t know how to wear a suit, and, suitably, look like shit. This is worth avoiding. To start us off, a few general rules should be observed when approaching a suit, and most apply to good dressing in general: The suit, no matter the style, needs to fit your body, closely. This means all pieces should be cut and tailored appropriate to your form. Surprisingly, this doesn’t require a lot of money ($500 can, in fact, get you a good suit) but it does take an eye, and the strength to ignore any saccharine compliments from salesmen. Trends have six-to-eighteen-month shelf lives. If you plan to retire your suit in this window, feel free to splurge. Otherwise, shop considerately. Suits are made of wool or cotton, and their variations. Additional fabrics need not apply. You are an interesting, confident, multi-hued man. Let others learn that from how you behave, not from the label on your jacket. A suit jacket goes with suit pants, not with jeans or chinos. If you want a casual jacket, buy a sport-coat or a blazer. Stand-up comedians are regularly shot over this rule. If you’re not comfortable – if you don’t feel the suit’s appropriate for you – the salesman’s looking out for his commission, not your style. A modestly, well-dressed man has never failed to impress. Yes, never. Assuming you’re not an investment banker, you don’t need ten suits; you only need four. This means you can be a discerning shopper and spend time accumulating, then keeping your suits in good condition (dry clean once a year, then more for spills; don’t you dare iron it yourself). Think of the process in terms of collecting, spending years searching for that one original-packaged Chewbacca. The Fab Four 1. The Standard Blue: Great for business, lunches, New York Mayors, summer dinners, or casual parties. Can be worn with black or brown shoes, even white if you’re daring. Reflects well by a pool. Standard blue means navy, with no room for paler shades, even if you went to UNC. 2. The Classic Gray: Appropriate for everything and even makes a red-head look dandy. Grays also are the best with patterns, especially anything in the chevron family. Start with plain, move to window-pane. Even such, the gray is never controversial. It’s the Switzerland of suits. 3. The Basic Black: Our favorite and the perennial classic, it’s a fit at the Oscars or your sister’s wedding, the perfect compliment to a good white shirt, beloved by gangsters, designers, and undertakers (those jobs with the highest doses of fashion-conscious aptitudes; respectively, aggression, vanity, and wisdom). If you only own one suit, this is it. You can even be buried in it. 4. Any of the above, with pinstripes. The Jacket So. You’ve picked your color and you’re ready for the fit. First comes the jacket. Never was a suit bought for the pants and repeatedly worn afterwards. Pants are easily adjusted by a tailor, jackets can only have minor improvements. Think of true love: it must be close to just-right at first, with a slight thrill when you put it on, the coup de foudre as the French say. First off: are you a single-breasted man or a double? While both styles can fit most body types, single-breasted jackets tend to flatter the slim while double-breasted jackets make the broad look mighty. This doesn’t imply being ‘skinny’ or ‘fat,’ it’s simply about your tits; hence the term ‘breasted.’ Choose the jacket style that you can best fill out – from there you’ll always look best. David Letterman, who can rarely be found not wearing a double-breasted jacket, skirts this rule by sitting behind a desk. Notice how uncomfortable he is during the monologue, fussing with his buttons while standing full-view before the camera. To those opting for the single-breasted jacket, you’ll have to choose how many buttons you want. One? Hmm. Two? Excellent. And returning in popularity. Three? Certainly good, and was much sought-after in the recent past though it’s now reached near total market saturation. But, still classic, and hopefully always available. Of course, jackets also come in four-, five-, and six-button styles, each with their own fifteen minutes of fame. Four-button jackets have been sported by everyone from The Beatles to Steve Harvey. Can you sport one? Of course! But no, not this season… Last, the fit. Like we said before, close to the body, but no wrinkles when you button. Vents, double or single, are preferred to the vent-less jacket that, nine times out of ten, looks like a giant condom from behind. Shoulder pads should be avoided – you’re no linebacker – but a tailor will gouge you if you show up post-purchase and ask him to reduce the heft. Finally, before we move onto trousers, there is one ticklish in-between: the vest. We can put this simply. If you’re ready to buy a vest, you’re either old enough to sport one or dangerously disillusioned. A good rule of thumb: Alfred Hitchcock looked great in vests. Young Jimmy Stewart looked out of his league. Pick your man. The Trousers You must now choose a trouser style. There have been, in the history of men’s trousers, a few trends that fucked with a good thing: bell-bottoms, bibs, clam-diggers, ‘cargo.’ Unfortunately, all of these styles eventually found their way into suits. Men, generally, will take any pants that come with a jacket. Being men, we want some control over how they look – ‘How they work,’ thinks the man – but not too much. Hence, the cuffs-or-no-cuffs debate. Ask a man what he thinks of his pants and he’ll say, ‘Yeah, I had to go no-cuffs.’ We won’t help you here except to say: cuffs are older, no-cuffs are not. Choose according to your image of yourself. Next comes the pleats question: The only times pleats are wanted is in the single-pleat case, on a pair of wool pants. The case should be that the pants look crisp and well-folded, rather than puckered. How to tell the difference? Think of a pair of pants recently back from the dry cleaner. Remember the line down the middle of the leg. Does your new pleat-to-be look like that? If not, drop the hanger and run. After cuffs and pleats, you need to worry about waist, swish, drape, belt-loops, ass-hugging, crotch-dangling, and whether or not you need a watch pocket. This is beyond our advice. Suffice to say, your ass is probably less than marble, though it shouldn’t be treated like a towel hook. Pants shouldn’t blow like a scarf in the breeze. The best way to judge a pair of pants is to ask yourself, ‘Would I wear these pants on a date without the jacket?’ If so, they’re fine. If not, move on. Finally, a salesman will often ask if you’d like to buy two pairs of pants for the suit. The idea is you can alternate pants with the jacket so they wear evenly over time, but since pants can be so easily ruined, you always have a back-up pair. This is similar to electronics store people trying to sell you insurance on an air conditioner; if you have the money, it’s not a bad idea, but it also isn’t necessary. So now that you’ve picked out your suit, you have to know how to wear it. We’ll assume you know the basics of putting the thing on. (Yes, the jacket part goes on top.) And this brings us to buttoning. It is a historic dilemma, faced by every man. Here, for you, is our easy-to-remember rulebook: Two-button jacket: Button the top button, only, ever. Button the bottom button and you’ll look like a stooge. That’s really all there is to it. Three-button jacket: Button either the middle button alone or the top two. Important: the bottom button does not meet its hole. It will plead before a date, just when your stomach’s boiling, ‘Hey! Friend! Button me once, please. I’m sure we’ll look fine. Come on! Just once!’ But you will not give in, you will be strong. Now the suit’s on, and you’re ready to go. Comb your hair, have a cocktail, head out for the evening. Travel lightly when you go, meaning don’t bulge your pockets with a Bible-sized wallet. Your outside jacket pockets, in fact, should never be used unless your companion asks; at that moment chuck your pretensions and stuff them full. When you get home, brush down the suit, hang it evenly, and keep it in a bag. Wear it often, with pride, and don’t take shit for looking good. After all, no one can be Cary Grant, but everyone can try. Oh yeah, another thing: Don’t roll up the jacket sleeves Miami-Vice style. We say this now, but then again, considering the fickle nature of fashion, don’t hold us to it.

SELECTING MEN'S FORMALWEAR for the WEDDING

 

SELECTING MEN'S FORMALWEAR for the WEDDING

By Rose Smith

 

Have you ever noticed that weddings seem to be all about the bride? There's
information available for the wedding dress, shoes, makeup and accessories.
But...what about the groom and his ushers? After all, they need to wear
something to the wedding too!

So, what should the groom (and his attendants) be wearing to a wedding? In
most cases, it depends on the time of day that the wedding is to take place. If
the wedding is to be a very formal evening affair, a tuxedo is required. For a
morning or afternoon wedding, the attire of the men will depend more upon a
combination of preference and the type of wedding theme you've chosen.

For example, the groom should not be showing up in a formal black tuxedo for
a wedding on the beach. A lightweight and lighter color suit would be more
appropriate. If you're planning a very casual wedding, then lightweight dress
pants, shirt, tie (optional) and blazer would be appropriate as well.

The groom, father-of-the-bride, and groomsmen should all visit a professional
formalwear shop for guidance and information on the type of attire that is
available. Most men don't realize just how many decisions go into choosing a
wedding suit or tuxedo. You'll need to choose from single-breasted and
double-breasted jackets; collars that are peaked, notched or shawl; cummerbund
or vest; bow tie, ascot (these are double-knot ties with ends folded over) or a
casual tie.

Also, it's very important that everything coordinates with the attire of the
bride and bridesmaids, so make sure you know exactly what they will be wearing
and the colors chosen. (Take a fabric sample or a picture of the dresses).

Unless you plan on attending a lot of formal occasions after the marriage,
most men are better off renting their formalwear as opposed to buying it. There
are a lot of men's stores that carry large selections of wedding attire and they
will do alterations on rented suits. However, before you rent anything, make
sure you know what comes with the package. Do you need to buy the cummerbund
and/or vest? Are the shoes included? What about the tie and shirt? Make sure you
get a written receipt that states what is and is not included in the rental.

The groom and other gentlemen should be measured for their suits
approximately three months before the wedding. For any groomsmen who live out of
town, they can go to a local shop for measurements, then send the information to
the groom so he can set up the rental. Please make sure your ushers understand
that they are not to make their own rental arrangements in another city. You
will have no way of knowing if they actually picked the correct suit, color, or
accessories until they show up for the wedding, at which point you will have one
very unhappy bride - not a good thing!

The groom should look after all the rental arrangements at one store only.
Any groomsmen coming from out of town should arrive at least 2 to 3 days before
the wedding for final measurements in case there needs to be last minute
alterations done.

Most rentals can be picked up a day or two in advance. Check the
suits/tuxedos over carefully before leaving the store with them. Look for any
stains, rips, snags or possible cigarette burns. Everyone should try their suit
on to be sure it fits properly and the length of the pants and jacket sleeves
are correct. Be sure to wear the shoes you will be wearing at the wedding for
this. Check the cuffs and collar for frayed material, and make the jackets don't
have any buttons missing.

After the wedding, the best-man usually returns his own and the groom's suit
to the formalwear shop by the next business day. The groomsmen are responsible
for returning their own suits, also within the next business day to avoid late
charges. Small food or beverage stains can usually be removed easily enough,
however if a suit is heavily damaged, be prepared to pay for it. So fellows, be
careful during the wedding!

more info...



"Tuxedo" may be used to describe a type of semi-formal dress also known as
black tie, or more specifically, the jacket worn with black tie attire. In
some parts of the world a tuxedo is known as a dinner jacket.

There is no strict convention governing what precisely comprises a tuxedo,
given the relatively informal nature of it as a dress code. Most commonly a
tuxedo is made up of a black coat with lapels, black pants, a black bow tie,
black socks, black shoes, a black cummerbund, and a white shirt. In some parts
of the world it is acceptable to wear a white coat--usually in hot climates, or
during the warmer seasons of the year.

Novelty tuxedos are available in a wide range of colors, most popularly pink
and baby blue, but these should not be considered appropriate for a semi-formal
occasion. Many people wear adornments with their tuxedos, such as fancy
cufflinks or handkerchiefs in the breast pocket, and in most circles this is
considered perfectly acceptable.

While the breast shirt of a tuxedo is normally a pure white, some care should
be taken to compliment the color of the date's dress. This is considered
particularly important in weddings, when an inappropriately white shirt can cast
the wrong hue on the bride's dress. In this instance it is acceptable to choose
an off-white shirt similar to that of the partner's dress.

Good tuxedos are made of wool, while polyester or wool-polyester blends are
generally considered sub-par. Thread count varies from worsted wool at 60-75
threads per inch, all the way up to 120 threads per inch, by fine names such as
Lubiam and Andrew Fezza. The number of buttons on the tuxedo is a matter of
personal preference; many people consider more buttons to appear more
fashionable, but a single or dual buttoned jacket is much more traditional in
appearance.

A decent tuxedo may be rented for under $100 (US dollars) in most cities,
though for the best results a tuxedo should be custom fit to the wearer.
Preparations for a tuxedo should start at least two months in advance, and
conventional wisdom holds that if you plan on attending black tie events more
than three times a year you should own your own tuxedo.

While many people consider tuxedos to be formal attire, it is important to
note that they are in fact a semi-formal alternative to the more proper
white tie dress. White tie includes a black full coat with tails (as
opposed to a short coat), black braided pants, black socks and shoes, a black
top hat, a white bowtie, a white cummerbund, a white shirt and collar, both
stiffened, and an overcoat. Tuxedos were adopted primarily as a relief from the
high-maintenance required for white tie attire, particularly the starching of
the undershirt. In addition to the handkerchief and cufflinks often seen with
tuxedos, white tie may also include a cane and white dress gloves.

As traditions in the West evolve, the prevalence of white tie events is
rapidly giving way to events in which a tuxedo is the preferred form of dress.
Only a few events at the highest strata of society require anything more than a
tuxedo, which is easily rented at a local shop.

A tuxedo is considered the height of men's formal wear, and while tuxedos are
less common than they used to be, knowing about the different types of tuxedos
can be helpful when you plan to wear one. Different types of tuxedos are
designed for different occasions, and it is important to be dressed
appropriately when wearing formal wear. While tuxedos are most frequently
associated with long black tailcoats, a formal tuxedo also includes a
cummerbund, bow tie, and matching pants. Coordinating all the parts of the
tuxedo will yield a smooth, polished look that is certain to impress.

Different types of tuxedos fall into a number of basic categories. The first
category is the time of day during which the tuxedo will be worn, and the level
of formality involved. Lapel styles also vary in different types of tuxedos, and
depending on the level of formality, one style may be more appropriate than
another. Single breasted tuxedos are more casual, while double breasted tuxedos
are reserved for very formal occasions. Finally, the type of tails on the tuxedo
is also important to consider: some events require full tails, while others call
for different types of tuxedos with a more casual look.

If you are attending a daytime event before 4:00, daytime tuxedos are
appropriate. Tuxedos designed for day wear are usually in dark gray, and often
have stripes as well. Black tuxedos are not to be worn during the day, as they
are designed for formal evening events. Daytime tuxedos also usually lack full
tails, and are single breasted with shawl or peak lapels. If you have been
invited to a daytime formal event and are unsure about what to wear, consult a
salesperson who can guide you through the different types of tuxedos designed
for day wear so that you can pick one that is suitable and flattering for your
figure.

For evening events, different types of tuxedos are used depending on whether
the event is ultra formal, calling for a black double breasted tuxedo with full
tails, or simply formal. For white tie events, plan on wearing the most formal
tuxedo possible. For black tie optional, lean towards a more casual single
breasted tuxedo with no tails. Given the large array of different types of
tuxedos for evening events, you may want to consider consulting a specialist who
can make sure that you look your best.

Whether you are buying or renting tuxedo, it is better to lean in the
conservative direction. While some types of tuxedos come in crazy colors or
include silly cummerbunds, you will probably feel more comfortable in a classic
formal tuxedo. Especially in the instance of events which are going to be
photographed for posterity, a stylish tuxedo goes a long way. Get a reliable and
level headed friend to help you survey the different types of tuxedos and make
an appropriate choice.

Dry Cleaning, What Is It?

Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and little or no water. The combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much wear as actual wearing of the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner so far for most all types of fabrics. However, "perc" as it is called in the dry-cleaning industry is classified as a hazardous air pollutant by the Clean Air Act. Perc is toxic. Dry cleaning customers should take their garments out of the plastic bags and air their garments after dry cleaning. You, the consumer, can inform yourself when selecting a dry cleaner. Common sense will cover the basic questions such as the appear,ance of the dry cleaning store - - - Is it neat and clean or dirty and cluttered? Is the location convenient and are they open when you need to drop of or pick up your dry cleaning? Technical considerations include solvent purity. Solvent must be distilled to remove greases, oils, waxes and dyes. Poor solvent purity or quality can result in an objectionable odor in the garment and a "graying" of white clothing.

Men Suits Owners: Watch Out for Moths

Moths like to nibble on wool under normal conditions, but if there's a spill of anything on your cashmere garment it becomes an especially appetizing morsel for our little pests. So send it out to the cleaners or hand-wash immediately. There really is no such thing as spot removal. The stain is still there underneath in the fibers. Even if there's no apparent spotting, it's safest to clean or wash cashmere after each season. Hand washing keeps it fresh, soft, clean and looking like new. In all cases however, cashmere or any other fabric, the manufacturers cleaning instructions (usually sown somewhere on the article of clothing) supersedes all others. To hand wash at home, fill the sink or tub with two gallons of lukewarm water. Swish the soap (either Lanowash, Lanorinse, Woolite, a mild shampoo or Ivory flakes) and place the garment in the water. Soak for five minutes. Squeeze the suds through the fibers, careful to avoid wringing or rubbing. Squeeze out the excess water and remove from the sink. Then refill the sink with clean, lukewarm water. Remember that the rinse water temperature should be as close to the wash water as possible to avoid shocking the garment. And don't run the tap water on the cashmere. Gently soak the item and squeeze to release the suds. Repeat as many times as necessary until there are no more suds. Then roll the garment in a towel to absorb the excess moisture. Lay flat on a dry towel to maximize airflow and keep away from heat and sunlight. Shape it to your size. But NEVER stretch. As I say, never put fine cashmere items away for the season without a cleaning or washing. There are always tiny food specs and dust invisible to the eye. It's only common sense to take proper care of expensive apparel. You take your car in for the necessary service at regular intervals, don't you? You want it to perform for you at all times, right? Same with luxury garments. For happy cashmere campers, store after cleaning in tightly-sealed plastic bags, preferably in a cedar closet or a regular closet with cedar chips, lavender and maybe a couple of moth balls for added punch. But take it easy on the moth balls, you don't want to scatter your neighbors when you step out the door on the first cool morning next season. And remember, nothing pleases like cashmere. The next time you're looking for a special little gift, think cashmere. A cashmere scarf, hat, gloves, blanket or a pair of socks are great house warmers and will cozy you up to the recipient like nothing else without breaking your bank account. Nobody forgets from whom they came. And if you ever feel guilty about indulging yourself in cashmere, remember what Bertrand Russell wrote in "The Conquest of Happiness" --- "To be able to feel leisure intelligently is the last product

Men’s Fashion

Part 1,

Suits It’s the one thing every man should own: a suit. The Editors salute the suit’s ability to withstand expiration, bask in its enduring appeal, and offer advice on what to look for when you’re off to buy your own. If only we could be there to say, ‘Suits you, sir!’ ‘A mask tells us more than a face.’ – Oscar Wilde Introduction to the Series Welcome to the first installment of The Morning News Men’s Fashion Guide. Over the course of four articles, The Morning News will open its closets and show what we’ve learned: our sartorial successes, our embarrassing failures (involving capes in one case, dreadlocks in another), and our underwear, which we find both embarrassing and successful. This week we’ll explain what we like, what we hate, and what we don’t know about suits, with shopping tips included. These lessons have been prepared over years of bad and good shopping, and are written for the ground-floor dresser, guaranteed trend-proof. Indulge in your vanity and join us in ours. And now, the man’s little black dress if he could wear it into battle: the suit. On Suits ‘Everyone wants to be Cary Grant. Even I want to be Cary Grant.’ – Cary Grant Without suits, men would have nothing. In the hierarchy of style, a good suit remains a man’s only trump card. Even in this sad age of casual-wear, the suit still carries an air of success, taste, and sophistication. It is designed to make you look better, to break boundaries between social classes, to make a small man tall with pinstripes or a fat man rich with soft wools. The suit looks good in restaurants, trains, dinner parties or Paris; in short, everywhere you want to be. It is, in its best forms, a complete outfit that will never fail you. And that is exactly what it will do, if you treat it right. Unfortunately the majority of suits you see look awful. This isn’t necessary. Even if you work ten hours with your jacket on, being mindful of your clothing will keep you ready for cocktails after work. Too many men either don’t care or don’t know how to wear a suit, and, suitably, look like shit. This is worth avoiding. To start us off, a few general rules should be observed when approaching a suit, and most apply to good dressing in general: The suit, no matter the style, needs to fit your body, closely. This means all pieces should be cut and tailored appropriate to your form. Surprisingly, this doesn’t require a lot of money ($500 can, in fact, get you a good suit) but it does take an eye, and the strength to ignore any saccharine compliments from salesmen. Trends have six-to-eighteen-month shelf lives. If you plan to retire your suit in this window, feel free to splurge. Otherwise, shop considerately. Suits are made of wool or cotton, and their variations. Additional fabrics need not apply. You are an interesting, confident, multi-hued man. Let others learn that from how you behave, not from the label on your jacket. A suit jacket goes with suit pants, not with jeans or chinos. If you want a casual jacket, buy a sport-coat or a blazer. Stand-up comedians are regularly shot over this rule. If you’re not comfortable – if you don’t feel the suit’s appropriate for you – the salesman’s looking out for his commission, not your style. A modestly, well-dressed man has never failed to impress. Yes, never. Assuming you’re not an investment banker, you don’t need ten suits; you only need four. This means you can be a discerning shopper and spend time accumulating, then keeping your suits in good condition (dry clean once a year, then more for spills; don’t you dare iron it yourself). Think of the process in terms of collecting, spending years searching for that one original-packaged Chewbacca. The Fab Four 1. The Standard Blue: Great for business, lunches, New York Mayors, summer dinners, or casual parties. Can be worn with black or brown shoes, even white if you’re daring. Reflects well by a pool. Standard blue means navy, with no room for paler shades, even if you went to UNC. 2. The Classic Gray: Appropriate for everything and even makes a red-head look dandy. Grays also are the best with patterns, especially anything in the chevron family. Start with plain, move to window-pane. Even such, the gray is never controversial. It’s the Switzerland of suits. 3. The Basic Black: Our favorite and the perennial classic, it’s a fit at the Oscars or your sister’s wedding, the perfect compliment to a good white shirt, beloved by gangsters, designers, and undertakers (those jobs with the highest doses of fashion-conscious aptitudes; respectively, aggression, vanity, and wisdom). If you only own one suit, this is it. You can even be buried in it. 4. Any of the above, with pinstripes. The Jacket So. You’ve picked your color and you’re ready for the fit. First comes the jacket. Never was a suit bought for the pants and repeatedly worn afterwards. Pants are easily adjusted by a tailor, jackets can only have minor improvements. Think of true love: it must be close to just-right at first, with a slight thrill when you put it on, the coup de foudre as the French say. First off: are you a single-breasted man or a double? While both styles can fit most body types, single-breasted jackets tend to flatter the slim while double-breasted jackets make the broad look mighty. This doesn’t imply being ‘skinny’ or ‘fat,’ it’s simply about your tits; hence the term ‘breasted.’ Choose the jacket style that you can best fill out – from there you’ll always look best. David Letterman, who can rarely be found not wearing a double-breasted jacket, skirts this rule by sitting behind a desk. Notice how uncomfortable he is during the monologue, fussing with his buttons while standing full-view before the camera. To those opting for the single-breasted jacket, you’ll have to choose how many buttons you want. One? Hmm. Two? Excellent. And returning in popularity. Three? Certainly good, and was much sought-after in the recent past though it’s now reached near total market saturation. But, still classic, and hopefully always available. Of course, jackets also come in four-, five-, and six-button styles, each with their own fifteen minutes of fame. Four-button jackets have been sported by everyone from The Beatles to Steve Harvey. Can you sport one? Of course! But no, not this season… Last, the fit. Like we said before, close to the body, but no wrinkles when you button. Vents, double or single, are preferred to the vent-less jacket that, nine times out of ten, looks like a giant condom from behind. Shoulder pads should be avoided – you’re no linebacker – but a tailor will gouge you if you show up post-purchase and ask him to reduce the heft. Finally, before we move onto trousers, there is one ticklish in-between: the vest. We can put this simply. If you’re ready to buy a vest, you’re either old enough to sport one or dangerously disillusioned. A good rule of thumb: Alfred Hitchcock looked great in vests. Young Jimmy Stewart looked out of his league. Pick your man. The Trousers You must now choose a trouser style. There have been, in the history of men’s trousers, a few trends that fucked with a good thing: bell-bottoms, bibs, clam-diggers, ‘cargo.’ Unfortunately, all of these styles eventually found their way into suits. Men, generally, will take any pants that come with a jacket. Being men, we want some control over how they look – ‘How they work,’ thinks the man – but not too much. Hence, the cuffs-or-no-cuffs debate. Ask a man what he thinks of his pants and he’ll say, ‘Yeah, I had to go no-cuffs.’ We won’t help you here except to say: cuffs are older, no-cuffs are not. Choose according to your image of yourself. Next comes the pleats question: The only times pleats are wanted is in the single-pleat case, on a pair of wool pants. The case should be that the pants look crisp and well-folded, rather than puckered. How to tell the difference? Think of a pair of pants recently back from the dry cleaner. Remember the line down the middle of the leg. Does your new pleat-to-be look like that? If not, drop the hanger and run. After cuffs and pleats, you need to worry about waist, swish, drape, belt-loops, ass-hugging, crotch-dangling, and whether or not you need a watch pocket. This is beyond our advice. Suffice to say, your ass is probably less than marble, though it shouldn’t be treated like a towel hook. Pants shouldn’t blow like a scarf in the breeze. The best way to judge a pair of pants is to ask yourself, ‘Would I wear these pants on a date without the jacket?’ If so, they’re fine. If not, move on. Finally, a salesman will often ask if you’d like to buy two pairs of pants for the suit. The idea is you can alternate pants with the jacket so they wear evenly over time, but since pants can be so easily ruined, you always have a back-up pair. This is similar to electronics store people trying to sell you insurance on an air conditioner; if you have the money, it’s not a bad idea, but it also isn’t necessary. So now that you’ve picked out your suit, you have to know how to wear it. We’ll assume you know the basics of putting the thing on. (Yes, the jacket part goes on top.) And this brings us to buttoning. It is a historic dilemma, faced by every man. Here, for you, is our easy-to-remember rulebook: Two-button jacket: Button the top button, only, ever. Button the bottom button and you’ll look like a stooge. That’s really all there is to it. Three-button jacket: Button either the middle button alone or the top two. Important: the bottom button does not meet its hole. It will plead before a date, just when your stomach’s boiling, ‘Hey! Friend! Button me once, please. I’m sure we’ll look fine. Come on! Just once!’ But you will not give in, you will be strong. Now the suit’s on, and you’re ready to go. Comb your hair, have a cocktail, head out for the evening. Travel lightly when you go, meaning don’t bulge your pockets with a Bible-sized wallet. Your outside jacket pockets, in fact, should never be used unless your companion asks; at that moment chuck your pretensions and stuff them full. When you get home, brush down the suit, hang it evenly, and keep it in a bag. Wear it often, with pride, and don’t take shit for looking good. After all, no one can be Cary Grant, but everyone can try. Oh yeah, another thing: Don’t roll up the jacket sleeves Miami-Vice style. We say this now, but then again, considering the fickle nature of fashion, don’t hold us to it.

Men's Suits Fabrics

Men's suits -

Can't figure out what type of fabrics you should look for in a suit?
Let's review what you are likely to come across when hitting the shops.

WOOLS:
Wool is the fabric of choice for good men's suits. It's natural, it breathes well, it's durable and looks great to boot.

There are four main kinds of wool:

Tweed Tweed is a very heavy wool fabric, popular in places like the British Isles where there seems to be a permanent chill in the air. The average wearer of tweed is more mature if you get my meaning. Stay away from tweed, especially if you're packing a few extra pounds. Tweed is not the larger man's friend. Flannel Flannel is the heaviest of the non-tweed wools. It is a corded wool, it’s durable and is especially nice in a charcoal gray with classic pinstripes. For a suit, it might be a bit too hot in most office environments. While nice, it's not an ideal fabric for a suit. Tropical This is usually a kind of wool crepe, which is a lightweight fabric. It's more of a summer weight, the sort you might wear in warmer climates. Being lighter, it is also more susceptible to wrinkles, and therefore requiring frequent visits to the dry-cleaner. This clearly would not be an every day kind of suit fabric. Worsted As I have stated before, worsted wools are your best bet for a suit. These will be your gabardines or mid-weight corded wools. They are durable, wear well and usually fine for year-round wear. They can be a little lighter or heavier, depending on the weave, but consider them mid-weight. You might come across a suit that is advertised as a "high-twist," 100, or Super 110. This just means that the suit is made of a worsted wool yarn that has been twisted more often than the usual 60-80 twist fabrics. This makes it a finer cloth of a somewhat lighter weight. Such suits would be perfectly fine, therefore, for spring, summer, and fall, but might not work in winter.

OTHER FABRICS Cotton Cotton is probably the most acceptable choice for men's suits that isn’t wool. If you live in a warm place this is a great alternative look to wool. I prefer cotton suits that have a little lycra or something that gives it stretch. This will allow your suit to keep it’s shape and will prevent the color from fading more quickly. Linen Okay, you look at linen and you think of a beach on the Mediterranean or the Caribbean Islands and you’re strolling down that beach with your pants rolled up a touch and . . . ahhh. Stop dreaming! As a fabric goes, linen wrinkles quickly, stains, and doesn’t wear well. It is not acceptable for a suit, unless you really are one of the lucky few that actually do live on a beach in a tropical place. Polyester The 70's are over so let’s move on. Micro Fiber A very light polyester. Again, let’s move on.